Briáge Magazine

Mar 1415 min read

Most Expensive Watches Ever Sold at Auction

A list of 25 of the most expensive watches in the world to have been sold at auction

The value of a watch can vary greatly depending on various factors such as its uniqueness, historical significance, complications, and previous ownership by a famous individual. In today's red-hot watch auction market, the prices fetched for exceptional timepieces can often surpass expectations. Let's delve into the top 25 watches, ranked in descending order based on the prices they commanded on the auction block, while also exploring some of the most intriguing backstories and technical achievements associated with these timepieces.

While Patek Philippe and Rolex typically dominate the top ranks, other watchmakers, both renowned and emerging, have also made their mark in the upper echelons of the market. From groundbreaking complications to one-of-a-kind pieces, these watches showcase the pinnacle of craftsmanship and design in the horological world.

At the conclusion of our exploration, we'll highlight some notable watches from brands that didn't make it to the top 25 but nonetheless maintain a strong presence in the watch auction scene, demonstrating the diversity and depth of the market.

1. Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 ($31.19 million, 2019, Christie’s)

Patek Philippe introduced the first Grandmaster Chime watch in 2014 as part of the festivities commemorating the 175th anniversary of the esteemed Geneva-based maison. The particular reference that made history at the Only Watch auction in Geneva in 2019 was a one-of-a-kind creation, distinguished as the sole Grandmaster Chime ever crafted in stainless steel; it is worth noting that the Grandmaster Chime models in Patek Philippe's regular collection are exclusively crafted from precious metals.

This remarkable timepiece stands as the most intricate Patek Philippe wristwatch ever produced, boasting an impressive array of 20 complications, all elegantly displayed across two dials – one in ebony black and the other in salmon – housed within a swiveling, reversible case adorned with intricate hobnail guilloché-patterned sides. Among the myriad of complications, two stand out as patented world-premieres: an acoustic alarm capable of chiming at a pre-programmed time and a date repeater that can strike the date upon demand. Additionally, the watch features a Grande and Petite Sonnerie, moon phases, and a perpetual calendar.

In keeping with the tradition of the biennial Only Watch auction, the staggering and record-breaking hammer price of $31 million from the sale of this exceptional timepiece was generously allocated towards funding research aimed at finding a cure for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

2. Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication Ref. 198.385 ($24 million, 2014, Sotheby’s)

Henry Graves, Jr., a prominent New York banker and passionate watch collector, became part of a legendary rivalry with fellow tycoon James Ward Packard, the founder of Packard Motors, to own the world's most complicated watch. In 1933, Graves commissioned Patek Philippe to create what would become known as the Henry Graves Supercomplication, surpassing Packard's watch, which had 10 complications, with an astounding 24 complications. Crafted as a unique gold pocket watch, this masterpiece featured an array of horological functions including Westminster chimes, a perpetual calendar, sunrise and sunset times, and even a celestial map depicting the New York skyline as viewed from Graves's Fifth Avenue residence.

Following Graves's passing in 1953, the watch exchanged hands several times over the years. In 1999, it was auctioned for the first time by Sotheby’s, fetching a then-record price of $11,002,500, acquired by Sheikh Saud bin Mohammed Al Thani of the Qatar Royal Family. Subsequently, after his demise, the watch went under the hammer again at Sotheby’s in 2014, this time sold to an anonymous buyer, setting yet another record.

3. Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona Ref. 6239 ($17.75 million, 2017, Phillips)

Legendary actor and motorsports enthusiast Paul Newman was renowned for sporting a distinctive and rare Rolex Daytona wristwatch (Ref. 6239) throughout his illustrious racing career. Dubbed the "Paul Newman Daytona," this timepiece has attained legendary status and commands top dollar on the secondary market. Therefore, it came as no surprise that the very watch worn by Paul Newman himself caused a seismic stir when it went up for auction in New York on October 26, 2017.

This 37mm-diameter stainless steel chronograph, featuring its signature off-white dial, contrasting black subdials and minute track, and an engraved tachymeter-scale bezel, was a gift from Newman's wife, actress Joanne Woodward. The caseback bore a poignant message of affectionate caution, reading "Drive Carefully - Me," referencing the start of Newman's racing career around that period. Acquired in 1968, the watch remained within the Newman family for nearly five decades before being consigned for auction.

The auction's outcome was nothing short of historic, with the "Paul Newman" Daytona fetching an astounding $17.75 million, solidifying its status as the most expensive Rolex watch ever sold.

4. Patek Philippe Stainless Steel Ref. 1518 ($11.137 million, 2016, Phillips)

This Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph briefly held the title for the most expensive watch sold at auction when it fetched 9.6 million Swiss francs at a Phillips Auction in Geneva in 2016. Dating back to 1941, this timepiece holds significant historical importance for several reasons. Firstly, it represents the first wristwatch to combine both a perpetual calendar and a chronograph, marking a significant milestone in horological innovation. Additionally, it is exceedingly rare, being one of only four models ever produced in steel during the World War II era, when steel was primarily allocated for wartime purposes.

The 35mm case of this watch contains an extensively modified Valjoux caliber, meticulously finished by Patek Philippe, showcasing the brand's commitment to craftsmanship and excellence. This extraordinary timepiece exemplifies the pinnacle of watchmaking artistry and remains a prized possession among collectors for its historical significance and exceptional rarity.

5. Patek Philippe “Prince Mohammed Tewlik A. Toussou” Ref. 1518 ($9,570 million, 2021, Sotheby’s)

Patek Philippe Prince Mohammed Tewlik Toussou

Another notable Patek Philippe reference featuring perpetual calendar and chronograph functions, this timepiece boasts a 35mm rose-gold case and holds a distinguished provenance, having once belonged to Prince Mohammed Tewfik A. Toussou of Egypt. Acquired by the Prince in 1951, he was a direct descendant of Muhammad Ali, the esteemed founder of modern Egypt. Crafted by Patek Philippe and released in 1941, this timepiece is believed to be one of approximately 340 pieces produced. However, this particular version, distinguished by its copper-pink dial, is exceptionally rare, with only 14 known examples in existence.

Following the Prince's passing in April 2021, his heirs entrusted the watch to Sotheby’s for auction. In December 2021, it achieved remarkable success, selling for more than $9.5 million at an auction held in New York. This impressive sale underscores the enduring allure and value of timepieces with rich provenance, exceptional rarity, and extraordinary craftsmanship, cementing its status as a coveted treasure among discerning collectors.

6. Patek Philippe Gobbi Milan "Heures Universelles" Ref. 2523 ($8.967 million, 2019, Christie’s)

This exceptionally rare Patek Philippe timepiece, dating back to 1953, represents a true horological treasure, with only seven pieces ever made. Presented at Christie’s auction in Hong Kong in 2019, this remarkable watch features a world-time function crafted by the renowned watchmaker Louis Cottier. Encased in rose gold and adorned with a captivating blue enamel dial, it stands out as the sole known example of this reference to bear the signatures of both Patek Philippe and the esteemed Milan retailer Gobbi.

The dial of this extraordinary watch is adorned with a silvered outer ring, meticulously engraved with the names of 40 world cities and accented with enamel. Encircling this outer ring is a two-tone 24-hour ring, featuring gray for nighttime hours and white for daytime hours, adding both functionality and aesthetic allure to the timepiece. This unique combination of exquisite craftsmanship, rare provenance, and legendary design makes this Patek Philippe watch a highly coveted treasure among collectors of fine timepieces.

7. Patek Philippe Two Crown Worldtime Ref. 2523 “Eurasia” ($7.682 million, 2021, Phillips)

Yet another extraordinary Patek Philippe world timer, this particular model achieved a remarkable sale price of $7.8 million at an auction in Geneva in 2021. This exceptional timepiece not only set a record price for a watch featuring a "Heuer Universelle" world-time function but also claimed the title of the highest-selling watch ever housed in a yellow-gold case. Fondly nicknamed "The Silk Road," this reference stands out for its captivating cloisonné dial, which vividly depicts the expansive region of Eurasia.

The intricate design of the cloisonné dial pays homage to the ancient trade routes of the Silk Road, showcasing the rich cultural heritage and historical significance of this iconic pathway. With its exquisite craftsmanship, rare provenance, and unique design elements, "The Silk Road" Patek Philippe has captured the imagination of watch enthusiasts and collectors alike, solidifying its status as a true masterpiece in the world of horology.

8. Patek Philippe Stainless Steel Ref. 5016A-010 ($7.259 million, 2015, Phillips)

At the Only Watch Geneva auction in 2015, this extraordinary steel-cased Patek Philippe commanded a staggering price of more than $7 million. Renowned for its rarity and exceptional craftsmanship, this timepiece combines three elite horological complications: a minute repeater, a tourbillon, and a perpetual calendar with moon-phase indication.

Powering this marvel of watchmaking is a 506-part manually wound movement, meticulously crafted to ensure precise timekeeping and the seamless operation of its intricate complications. One standout feature is the retrograde date hand, which elegantly flies back to the beginning of the next month after each cycle of 28, 29, 30, or 31 days.

Despite its complex inner workings, this Patek Philippe exudes understated elegance with its steel case and dark blue alligator strap. Its modest size, just under 37mm in diameter, adds to its appeal, making it a coveted treasure among discerning collectors.

9. Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.” ($6.5 million, 2021, Phillips)

In a surprising turn of events, Patek Philippe announced the discontinuation of its highly sought-after Nautilus model (Ref. 5711), sparking a frenzy among watch enthusiasts and collectors eager to acquire this iconic timepiece. This decision by Patek Philippe intensified the allure of existing examples of the Nautilus, rendering them even more coveted and elusive than before.

However, Patek Philippe orchestrated a memorable farewell for the Nautilus in late 2021, unveiling a limited run of models exclusively retailed through Tiffany & Co., the brand's longstanding U.S. retail partner. These special editions featured a striking Tiffany Blue dial, adding a touch of distinction to the iconic design. Limited to just 170 pieces, each watch was adorned with a special 170th anniversary inscription on the caseback, signifying its unique significance.

Despite the exclusivity of these timepieces, one single piece was made available for auction in December 2021. Acquired for an impressive $6.5 million by renowned Patek Philippe collector Zach Lu, this exceptional watch garnered significant attention and marked the end of an era for the Nautilus. Notably, the proceeds from this historic sale at Phillips' New York headquarters were generously donated to the Nature Conservancy, reflecting Patek Philippe's commitment to environmental conservation and philanthropy.

10. Patek Philippe Titanium Ref. 5208T-010 ($6.226 million, 2017, Christie’s)

This exceptional timepiece, distinguished by its titanium case, holds the remarkable distinction of setting the record for the second-highest price ever achieved at the prestigious Only Watch charitable auction. Crafted as the first and only model of the Ref. 5208 "Triple Complication" in titanium, this watch embodies unparalleled exclusivity and innovation.

At the heart of this extraordinary timepiece beats the remarkable R CH 27 PS QI movement, powering three sophisticated complications: a minute repeater, a monopusher chronograph, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar. These intricate mechanisms not only showcase Patek Philippe's mastery of horological artistry but also exemplify the brand's commitment to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking excellence.

In addition to its impressive complications, Patek Philippe spared no effort in enhancing the aesthetic appeal of this unique timepiece. The movement decoration features a stunning black rhodium finish on the bridges, complemented by a meticulously crafted guilloche treatment on the platinum rotor. This meticulous attention to detail elevates the watch's craftsmanship to new heights, ensuring its status as a true masterpiece of haute horlogerie.

11. Rolex Daytona Gold “Unicorn” Ref. 6265 ($5.937 million, 2018, Phillips)

The white-gold Cosmograph Daytona, affectionately known as the "Unicorn," stands as a testament to Rolex's exceptional craftsmanship and rarity. Dating back to circa 1970, this singular timepiece holds the distinction of being the only known example of its kind, thus earning its mythical moniker.

What sets the "Unicorn" apart is not only its exquisite white-gold construction but also its distinctive bark-pattern bracelet, crafted from the same precious metal. During the 1970s, Rolex predominantly utilized steel and yellow gold for its Daytona models, making the discovery of a white-gold variant exceptionally rare and highly coveted among collectors.

Housing the manually wound Caliber 727 with 17 jewels, this timepiece exudes sophistication and precision within its 37mm Oyster case. Its unique combination of rarity, craftsmanship, and historical significance catapults the "Unicorn" to the upper echelons of horological collectibles, securing its place as one of the most sought-after Rolex watches ever produced.

12. Patek Philippe Gold Chronograph Ref. 1527 ($5.709 million, 2010, Christie’s)

The extraordinary perpetual calendar chronograph with a yellow-gold tonneau case, auctioned at Christie's in 2010, continues to hold its esteemed position among the top 25 most valuable timepieces. Renowned for its rarity and exceptional craftsmanship, this watch surpassed all expectations by more than doubling its pre-auction estimate.

Adorned with a matte silver dial, the timepiece showcases applied Arabic numerals, a tachymeter scale, and three subdials dedicated to chronograph minutes, running seconds, date, and moon-phases. Its meticulously crafted movement bears the prestigious Geneva Seal, a hallmark of superior quality and precision in watchmaking.

Beyond its luxurious aesthetic and intricate complications, this watch represents a pinnacle of horological excellence, exemplifying the meticulous attention to detail and expert craftsmanship synonymous with the finest timepieces. Its enduring allure and exceptional performance ensure its enduring legacy as a cherished collector's item and a symbol of timeless elegance.

13. Patek Philippe Worldtimer GuillochéRef. 2523/1 ($5.53 million, 2020, Phillips)

The timepiece, dating back to 1953, holds a distinguished status as one of only four of its kind in existence. Featuring a unique combination of design elements, including a guilloche dial and a rose-gold case, this exceptional watch stands as a testament to Patek Philippe's legacy of exquisite craftsmanship and innovation.

Notably, one of the four timepieces of this model is housed within Patek Philippe's esteemed museum in Geneva, further underscoring the rarity and significance of this particular watch. With its timeless elegance and unparalleled craftsmanship, this timepiece represents a pinnacle of horological artistry and remains a highly coveted collector's item among enthusiasts and connoisseurs worldwide.

14. Rolex “Paul Newman Big Red” Daytona Ref. 6263 ($5.48 million, 2020, Phillips)

Following the landmark sale of Paul Newman's Ref. 6239 Daytona, another significant timepiece linked to the iconic actor and racing driver emerged on the auction block. This watch, affectionately known as the "Big Red" Daytona, belonged to Newman and was consigned for auction by his daughter, Clea Newman Soderland.

Originally purchased by Joanne Woodward in 1983, the watch became a cherished possession of Newman, who wore it until his passing in 2008. The timepiece earned its moniker from the distinctive red-script "Daytona" inscription on the subdial at 6 o'clock, which contrasted elegantly against the black dial adorned with three white registers.

Notable for its stainless steel case equipped with screw-down chronograph pushers, the watch bore a unique inscription on the caseback: "Drive Carefully - Joanne," serving as a poignant reminder of Woodward's enduring concern for her husband's safety during his racing endeavors.

Rich in history and imbued with personal significance, the "Big Red" Daytona continues to captivate collectors and enthusiasts alike, offering a tangible connection to the legendary actor and his illustrious racing career.

15. Philippe Dufour Grande et Petite Sonnerie No. 1 ($5.21 million, Phillips, 2021)

Philippe Dufour, revered as a luminary in independent watchmaking, has solidified his status as horological royalty through his groundbreaking innovations and masterful craftsmanship. Renowned for his pioneering achievements, including the creation of the first Sonnerie wristwatch and the inaugural dual-escapement wristwatch, Dufour's timepieces command extraordinary attention and admiration.

Among his exceptional creations, the Grande et Petit Sonnerie No. 1 wristwatch stands as a crowning achievement, setting a world record as the most expensive watch ever sold from an independent maker. Crafted in 1992 and encased in opulent yellow gold, this masterpiece exemplifies the pinnacle of horological artistry.

At its heart lies a meticulously crafted movement, adorned with lavish finishing and imbued with unparalleled complexity. A marvel of miniaturization, the watch incorporates a sophisticated chiming mechanism capable of striking the hours and quarter hours independently, a feat that distinguishes it from conventional minute repeaters. The striking mechanism can be activated and controlled through sliding levers discreetly integrated into the 41mm case, offering a seamless fusion of form and function.

Adorning the dial is a grand feu enamel masterpiece, adorned with elegant Roman numerals and a small seconds sundial, exuding timeless sophistication and refinement.

In the realm of haute horlogerie, Philippe Dufour's Grande et Petit Sonnerie No. 1 wristwatch reigns supreme, embodying the pinnacle of craftsmanship, innovation, and timeless elegance.

16. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Panther Flying Tourbillon Unique Piece Ref.26620IO ($5.2 million, 2021, private auction)

In anticipation of the significant 50th anniversary milestone for its iconic Royal Oak collection, Audemars Piguet embarked on a groundbreaking collaboration with entertainment powerhouse Marvel to create a series of exclusive timepieces. The inaugural piece in this collaboration, crafted in white gold, represents a remarkable fusion of horological excellence and pop culture innovation.

This unique timepiece features Audemars Piguet's signature Royal Oak Concept case, characterized by its large, sculptural design and avant-garde aesthetic. The case is adorned with a hand-engraved motif inspired by the fictional African nation of Wakanda, a central element in the Marvel universe. Adding to its allure, the dial showcases a hand-painted 3D depiction of the revered Marvel character, Black Panther, also known as Prince T'Challa, positioned above the mesmerizing flying tourbillon.

Notably, while 250 additional pieces of this extraordinary creation were crafted in titanium, the unique white gold variant stands as a symbol of exclusivity and luxury.

The unveiling of this exceptional timepiece took place at a star-studded celebrity event hosted by renowned comedian Kevin Hart, with esteemed athletes and Audemars Piguet ambassadors LeBron James and Serena Williams in attendance. This high-profile occasion underscored the convergence of horology, entertainment, and cultural significance represented by the Audemars Piguet Marvel collaboration.

As Audemars Piguet commemorates five decades of innovation and craftsmanship with its Royal Oak collection, the collaboration with Marvel marks a groundbreaking chapter in the brand's illustrious history, reaffirming its commitment to pushing the boundaries of creativity and storytelling in the world of luxury watchmaking.

17. Rolex “Emperor Bao Dai” Ref. 6062 ($5.06 million, 2017, Phillips)

Indeed, among the esteemed lineup of Rolex timepieces, the Bao Dai stands out as a pinnacle of elegance and rarity. This 36mm yellow-gold masterpiece holds the distinction of being the only vintage Rolex watch to boast both a moon-phase complication and a triple calendar, featuring day, date, and month indications on its dial.

The watch owes its illustrious name to its most distinguished owner, Prince Nguyễn Phúc Vĩnh Thụy, renowned as "Bảo Đại" or "Preserver of Greatness." Bảo Đại served as the 13th and final emperor of the Vietnamese Nguyen Dynasty, which held sway from 1802 to 1945. During a pivotal moment in history, in 1954, just before his ousting from power, Bảo Đại acquired this extraordinary timepiece in Geneva while attending an international conference that ultimately led to the division of Vietnam.

The Bao Dai Rolex made its auction debut in 2002, fetching a remarkable sum of $232,000. However, its true moment in the spotlight came in 2017 when it resurfaced at auction and captured the attention of collectors worldwide. With a winning bid of $5.06 million, the Bao Dai Rolex claimed the title of the most expensive Rolex watch ever sold at auction, a testament to its exceptional provenance, unparalleled craftsmanship, and historical significance.

Although its reign as the world's most expensive Rolex was later surpassed by the legendary Paul Newman Daytonas, the Bao Dai Rolex remains an enduring symbol of horological excellence and regal elegance, embodying the intersection of luxury, heritage, and storytelling that defines the timeless appeal of Rolex watches.

18. Patek Philippe Yellow Gold Caliber 89 Pocket Watch ($5.042 million, 2009, Antiquorum)

19. Patek Philippe White Gold Caliber 89 Pocket Watch ($5.003 million, 2004, Antiquorum)

20. Patek Philippe Stainless Steel Ref. 130 ($4.987 million, 2015, Phillips)

21. F.P. Journe x Francis Ford Coppola FFC Blue ($4.93 million, 2021, Christie’s)

The collaboration between Francois-Paul Journe and Francis Ford Coppola resulted in a horological marvel known as the FFC Blue, a truly unique timepiece that captivated enthusiasts and collectors alike at the 2021 Only Watch auction. This extraordinary creation not only stole the spotlight but also secured its place as the highest-selling F.P. Journe watch in the brand's illustrious history spanning nearly 25 years.

Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, the FFC Blue features a tantalum case that serves as the canvas for its unconventional dial design. At the heart of this masterpiece is a large blue glove, its fingers ingeniously choreographed to indicate the hour, while a pointer positioned at the glove's tip elegantly tracks the minutes along a perpetually rotating minute track.

Each hour is uniquely depicted through the dynamic movements of the glove's fingers. For instance, at 1 o'clock, all the fingers form a closed fist except for the pointing index finger, while at 2 o'clock, both the index and middle fingers extend to indicate the hour, and so forth. As the dial transitions from one hour to the next, the glove's configurations evolve, offering a mesmerizing spectacle of timekeeping artistry.

In a nod to one of Coppola's most iconic films, the FFC Blue pays homage to "The Godfather" with its innovative and wholly distinctive time display—a captivating fusion of cinematic inspiration and horological innovation. For the fortunate individual who acquired this exceptional timepiece, it was an offer that truly couldn't be refused, elevating the FFC Blue to legendary status within the realm of haute horlogerie.

22. Breguet “Breguet et Fils,” Paris No. 2667 Precision 4 pocket watch ($4.68 million, Christie’s, 2012)

The timepiece, crafted around 1814 by the renowned Abraham-Louis Breguet, stands as the oldest entrant among the top 25 most expensive watches ever auctioned. Breguet, celebrated as the mastermind behind the tourbillon escapement and revered as one of horology's most influential figures, left an indelible mark on the craft of watchmaking.

Encased in radiant yellow gold and adorned with a distinct, individualized number, this rare pocket watch embodies the epitome of elegance and sophistication. Its engine-turned dial, meticulously detailed with a minute track and subdials featuring a blend of Arabic and Roman numerals, exudes timeless charm. One subdial boasts yellow-gold hands, while the other showcases blued hands, each serving to display local time and mean time respectively. Additionally, a small central sundial offers a glimpse into the passage of seconds.

Within the 63.7mm case lies a gilded brass movement comprising two autonomous mechanisms, each equipped with its own barrels—an astonishing feat of horological ingenuity for its era. Further enhancing its technical prowess, the timepiece incorporates pare-chute suspension and blued Breguet free-sprung balance springs, underscoring Breguet's unwavering commitment to precision and innovation.

As a testament to Breguet's enduring legacy and the timeless allure of his creations, this exquisite pocket watch continues to captivate collectors and connoisseurs alike, earning its rightful place among the most esteemed and coveted timepieces in horological history.